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When we talk about rules and traditions, there are old rules, outdated rules, classic rules, indispensable rules, and then there are dumb rules. One of the issues we deal with here on SP is sifting through the dusty pages of etiquette books and pulling out what is relevant to our modern times. Some may disagree (and often do) that everything we cover here is outdated and anachronistic, but those troglodytes are not of concern to us. Admittedly, these pages are often only for the civilized minority and yes, we may preach to our own choir on occasion, (well, most of the time actually) but from time to time we do come across issues that we disagree upon and today we have landed on one such number. In the vein of @justsoyouknow, and @whyitmatters, let’s tackle one of the perennial punch lines that declares “No White after Labor Day”. Let us look at where it all began, who adheres to the rule, when you can break it and why it even damn matters.
Originally the No White After Labor Day rule pertained to shoes, and later, by extension, to articles of clothing. The rule was surely borne of class distinction as those in the upper classes would naturally only wear white in the summer at their resorts. It was a matter of changing out the closets and putting away the winter. But as more people began to realize the American dream, they didn’t know all the little rules and sign posts that segregated the blue bloods from the nouveau riche. Our beloved Brooks Brothers used to provide little pamphlets to their customers around the turn of the 20th Century that told the newly rich how to act and dress when visiting England so they would not be embarrassed or intimidated when encountering the British stiff upper lip.
Now remember, before we embark on this any further, let us remind those who have just joined us what we are talking about here on SP. When we talk about manners, etiquette, classic style or what have you, we are generally talking about public behavior, yes, but especially those times when we wish to make a good impression. When we enter the Arenas of Impression, if you will permit me, we want to be confident, correct, and appropriate. So before some rudegeggar hits the comment button and tells me to go to hell or get real, keep this in mind. It is not when one is sitting around the basement of the fraternity house belching and beer ponging that we are concerned with here. It is when we come upstairs, don a jacket and tie and head out into the bright light of day to meet a date, his or her parents, or a prospective employer. Got it? Good.
One of the reasons this rule is still around, and here at SP we are a strict enforcer, has more to do with temperature and looking appropriate when the seasons don’t dictate what you would wear. Would you wear a tweed jacket in the summer? Remember the line from The Talented Mr. Ripley when the Freddie Miles character says of the Tom Ripley character “Corduroy? In Italy?” Freddie was referring to the Italy of the vacationing upper classes and that was the Summer Resort Italy. Who indeed would wear a corduroy jacket on the Italian coast in August? The reason the American South embraces this seemingly arcane and silly rule is simple. The weather. The temperature in New York City dictates that a man wears heavier clothing as the mercury drops. Simple common sense. But in the warmer climates, this is not the case. It can remain 80 degrees well into December in some places and heat flashes can occur in January and February as well.
Hence, the rule: No white after Labor Day and before Easter. No velvet before Thanksgiving or after Valentine’s Day. It just looks weird to see someone wearing white pants, or even light-colored khakis in January. The same goes for fabrics. You should refrain from wearing light cotton sweaters or linen pants in the winter unless you are on a tropical island or in Southern California. Just as you wouldn’t wear a heavy wool sweater in the summer, it looks off and inappropriate.
I once attended a party at the Hollywood Roosevelt in the month of February and was surprised to see Vogue magazine’s resident dandy Hamish Bowles sporting a seersucker suit while I was in a velvet jacket and jeans. As a Brit (and New Yorker) he was making a sarcastic sartorial statement. To his thinking, Los Angeles is a resort town in February and one would appropriately wear resort clothing. I thought it was hilarious and told him so.
So to all those who think they are being rebels by not adhering to some old rule, well, this one has a reason. Now you know so don’t say you weren’t warned. If you unknowingly saunter into an event wearing clothes out of season, people will judge you, SP won’t, but some people will. I just want you to be in the game. As with all of the rules and traditions discussed in these pages, it is not done for any class distinction or exclusive nonsense. It is simply to provide the tools for success, whether it is social, business or romantic. The more you know the farther you’ll go. So get going.
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this post has 17 comments
I heard that in New YOrk in the older times the
“fabric people” would put sheets etc. (white fabric) outside in the sun to bleach it white, however when Labor Day came around the sun was not strong enough to bleach the fabric therefore you could not wear “WHITE” after Labor Day. What do you think? TY
posted on August 25, 2012
Kerry
4309
As a Virginian, I will admit to somewhat fudging the edges of the Linen Suit issue. I wear a suit daily and take the stance that my favorite light khaki linen suit is acceptable from May 1 to September 21 (given that the temps are regularly over 80 during that time frame). Today is the day it came off the hanger in the closet and will be headed to the cleaners for the last time until it is back in the rotation in late spring. No one seem to be offended by this more liberal definition of summer suit. Thoughts?
Dear BW,
I don’t see how anyone could be offended. You seem to be a dapper dresser.
Cordially,
SP
posted on September 21, 2011
BW
3403
This post has struck a chord with me…a sort of wake up call. I live in Grayton Beach, Florida, and while I love the rules I have lapsed when it comes to white and linen after Labor Day. It’s hot. It’s also very humid. Charleston doesn’t begin to compare. Still, I collect vintage etiquette books and was raised in the South. So please, a post on what to wear between Labor Day and Halloween in the deepest South.
posted on September 19, 2011
Christi
3400
as a born and bred southerner, begat of my long-lined westchester father with my long-lined southern mother, I beg to offer a slight correction to your “no white after labor day or before easter” rule…i was raised with the rule being “no white after labor day or before memorial day”. to this day i adhere to that rule and have raised my three daughters in new england on the same, and other such rules. it has been no easy task to teach my children, when so many of their peers, equally as fortunate in their upbringing, either have not been taught the rules or, perhaps, simply do not care about such things. i have taught my daughters that in tradition lies a connection to those who came before and in that connection one finds strength in who they are…as we all carry a bit of who came before in who we become.
lovely blog and great fun to read!
posted on September 15, 2011
Southern lady through and through
3386
SP, Does the post Labor Day moratorium on wearing white include the white Oxford cloth button down shirt?
Dear Southern (sorry, I can’t bring myself to call you Mr. God),
Of course not. We are talking about white jackets, white pants, and especially white shoes.
Cordially,
SP
posted on September 2, 2011
Southern by the grace of God
3369
It’s always interesting to learn the history behind fashion rules and traditions, great post. I was curious, you had mentioned the rule of “No velvet before Thanksgiving and After Valentines day” and I was wondering if you would take a request and write about that rule as well?
posted on September 1, 2011
david lex
3365
“When we talk about manners, etiquette, classic style or what have you, we are generally talking about public behavior, yes, but especially those times when we wish to make a good impression.”
~ And ~
“I just want you to be in the game. As with all of the rules and traditions discussed in these pages, it is not done for any class distinction or exclusive nonsense. It is simply to provide the tools for success, whether it is social, business or romantic.”
Well stated, KCR. As I gear up for my own influx of criticism, I’ll be referring to this article often.
posted on August 30, 2011
Elisabeth
3362
Here is an interesting catch…what about white corduroy? I have a pair of plain white Lilly Pulitzer cords. Where do those fall on the fashion scale? I live in Texas so even cool winter days tend to be sunny.
Hello Bill,
I am afraid those white cords fall into the Put-away-until-Memorial-Day category. Unfortunately for those of us in the warmer climes, white cords, along with light cashmere sweaters, are intended for chilly New England summer nights. Preferably on a sailboat.
Cordially,
SP
posted on August 29, 2011
Bill
3358
Madras should be added to your list of seasonal attire. In my case, I refrain from wearing Madras after Labor Day and until the following Memorial Day weekend. Climate and seasonality can certainly influence ones choice of attire. But it is still incongruous to see someone wearing linen, however dark, on a warm day in October.
It is always nice to encounter another person who respects the basic rules of civility.
posted on August 29, 2011
RL
3357
Can we Californians have a dispensation till Michaelmas at least? Here in So Cal the three warm months are July, August, and September, and not really June at all!
posted on August 28, 2011
Hcat
3355
Mr. K. Cooper Ray,
Very nicely said. I am curious as to your rule with no socks pertaining to weather/seasons. I try to go by the weather and would say that I won’t go “sockless” if the weather is below 65-70 degrees. I also try to stick between the months of April-August. Your thoughts?
Dear cRc,
Like you, I let the weather decide. I can not stand cold feet. It’s enough to ruin a day, in my opinion. I’m also a huge fan of crazy socks (no surprise) and that is good news seeing the trend in menswear for crazy-colored socks this fall. But remember, we are always talking casual here. Always wear socks with a suit, not matter the season.
Cordially,
KCR
posted on August 28, 2011
cRc
3353
Agreed Lin. No one is calling for tuxedos and pearl at the Publix, but pool and gardening wear should be limited to those locations.
posted on August 28, 2011
Robert H
3352
As a gent who atteneds University at one of the ancient eight I must articulate that these truisms are only followed by a select few.
posted on August 28, 2011
Raulston
3350
Great post! Everyone needs a refresher from time to time.
posted on August 28, 2011
Joy
3349
I agree with most of this, except the linen aspect. Linen wears cool in the heat and warm in the cool, so I think nice linen pants, or jacket, or sweater would be appropriate in the fall and spring. After all, didn’t it come from Ireland? Most well-made linen products look nice enough to wear as separates, too, although a linen suit in late October would be awkward. Thoughts, SP?
Hey GM,
I can agree to this. I do live in Charleston and it will be hot on through September. But definitely keep the linen in the darker shades in the pants and worn with a blue blazer.
Cordially,
SP
posted on August 28, 2011
Gentleman Mac
3348
Brooks Brothers didn’t exist at “the turn of the 19th century.” The risk of getting all high and mighty is that you, too, could be one of the handful of people who actually make mistakes.
Dear Pierre,
High and mighty is what we do. We also make mistakes. It should ready 20th century. Thank you for your eagle eye and saucy tongue.
Cordially,
SP
posted on August 28, 2011
Pierre
3347
I would love to see more civility come back to this country. I an tired of seeing pajamas worn to restaurants, flip flops everywhere and basically people looking like they just got back from camping (I’m in the Northwest). Thanks for setting us straight! Let’s hope some of it sticks.
posted on August 28, 2011
Lin
3346