Social Primer

SP has been on an extended stay in New York City after a sweet country Christmas down South. I have a complicated relationship with the big city that’s been going on for a while now. I’ve lived in NYC on and off for a few years, and am alternately attracted and repelled by the crazy energy and constant amusement it provides to citizens and visitors alike. But this trip was a new and eye-opening experience. I have never been around during that week after Christmas as I’m always home with the family.  The usual bustling streets are practically deserted so the whole town feels quieter than usual. Even the horns don’t honk. The fact that the Christmas decorations are still in place and not falling apart is an added bonus. The fact that it snowed during my trip was just incredible icing. Herewith a little recap of a quieter time in NYC, or as my friend HH calls it, Our Nation’s Capital.

Metropolitan Museum of Art – I had the bright idea that since New York was quiet after the holiday, this would be a great time to stroll through one of the greatest museums the world has ever known. I have my favorite spots and I thought it would be nice to have them to myself. Wrong. The reason there was no hustle and bustle on the street was that every living soul was in the museum. Good to know that so many tourists and townies are culturally inclined but a  solitary experience it did not make. I did find my spots, discovered a few new ones and paid homage to the crèche in the Medieval Hall, but soon hightailed it right out of there. Here’s a little tip for the museum goer. The price of admission is only suggested.  At the Metropolitan (you never call it the Met, by the way. That is the nickname for the Metropolitan Opera) the suggested entry price is $20. You can pay as little or as much as you want or can afford. Let your conscience and your wallet’s weight be your guide.

Museum Train – Leaving the museum, I hopped on the subway to head downtown. Standing at the great nexus of 42nd Street waiting on my downtown V train, a strange and confusing sight rolled up the platform. Instead of the shiny silver bullet subway cars in use now, a beautiful old, dark hunter green train pulled into the station with City of New York emblazoned in gold letters. There were passengers on board and a conductor at each door as it opened. I asked what this strange train was and if it would take me to West 4th street. The conductor replied that yes, the train would stop at West 4th. He then told me that the MTA had decided to air out the museum and give these old trains a run on their old routes. When I tell you that it was like walking into a time capsule, I am not exaggerating. There was an announcement on the wall stating the train would be taken out of service on May 12, 1955. The advertisements were from back in the day, the seats were made of rattan, and the lights were single bulbs hanging between twirling ceiling fans. It was a singularly incredible experience. Most of the fellow passengers were smiling and talking to each other — a real rarity on a modern subway — reading the old advertisements and  welcoming new passengers at every stop. The fare as listed in 1955? Ten cents.

Studio Visit – I was invited down for a studio visit with the gents behind Carter & Cunningham, a new collective of art and objects. It was a cold and blustery day as I made the trek to Chrystie Street on the Lower East Side but what I found there was an amazing little artist’s den of beautiful things made by skilled craftsmen. I see great things ahead for this fledgling company. The ceramic owls are their signature and they are truly remarkable.

The Reading Room – No trip to NYC is complete without a visit to the Reading Room in the main branch of the New York Public Library. It is a touchstone for any reader or writer and from the looks of the place this week, tourists and townies flock there for peace and respite as well.

Joe’s Coffee on Waverly Place in Greenwich Village is without a doubt one of the best coffee shops I’ve ever run across.  They take the art of coffee seriously. I asked if I could have a little extra steamed milk in my cafe au lait to which the barista applied friendly but firmly, “No. It will cheapen our work.” He was right.

Drinks at the club – As anyone who knows me will tell you, SP is a country club junkie. I like the bland food, the musty smells and the antiquated decor. So when I was invited to a friend’s club for pre-dinner drinks, I jumped on the train and rolled uptown. I was not disappointed. The club is a piece of Old New York and is about as serious a slice of civility as you are likely to find. And it is a luncheon club at that. Fine old gentlemen gather for lunch in the main dining room as they’ve been doing for over a century. The incredible place was a step back into an Edith Wharton novel. Paging Newland Archer. Since it is not only against the rules to take photographs or use a cell phone inside of such a place — it is considered gauche beyond belief — these are not actual photos of the club.

So that’s the trip in a nutshell. As I look back over this it seems like I’ve had a very old-fashioned visit in the city. I don’t think I would have it any other way. Next up? An Old New York Pub Crawl.

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