SP Road Trip: Sailing Cape Cod

Schooner Hindu photo by Nancy Bloom

SP loves all things nautical: flags, Docksiders, brass hoo hahs and sailboats, especially sailboats. Big ones, small ones, new ones and old ones, always the old ones. And always wooden ones, if I have the choice. There are many places in America where the sailing is splendid, but there is one place that is near and dear to SP’s heart. That place is Cape Cod and in particular, Provincetown Harbor at the tip of the Cape which is very much the edge of America. One of the world’s deepest natural harbors, the harbor offers spectacular sailing for small boats, particularly the Rhodes 19.

When people think about sailing it seems that the words “rich” and “privilege” are the first words that pop into the mind. As with most of the experiences out there that we don’t run up against every day, there is an intimidation factor that prevents many of us from enjoying these adventures we desire. Sailing is probably one of those adventures. Well, dear reader, as with all things here on SP, we don’t acknowledge exclusivity and hence don’t feel intimidation.  Let’s go ride the bounding main, shall we?

There are all types of sailboats just as there are all types of automobiles. In the small boat category there is the little Rhodes 19, the Friendship Day sailboat — most popular in Maine – and even the little Sunfish just to name a few. But there is a grander and rarer vessel on which to sail and that is the majestic schooner. SP had the fortunate experience of taking sail on the Schooner Hindu last Saturday in the pre-Hurricane Bill winds and it was one brilliant ride. Captain Kevin Foley, an old salty dog if there ever was one, helms the Hindu and takes her out 3 or 4 times a day for a nominal fee. Take the two hour sunset sail out of Provincetown Harbor and Captain Foley will even let you take the wheel if you are so inclined. Hardly exclusive and a privilege to anyone who chooses.

A schooner is a type of sailing vessel characterized by the use of fore-and-aft sails on two or more masts with the forward mast being shorter or the same height as the rear masts. Schooners were first used by the Dutch in the 16th or 17th century, and further developed in North America to be used primarily as fishing boats. During the heyday of the New England fishing industry, the shallow waters of the Grand Banks held the best and abundant fish so there were many schooners in close proximity of each other vying for the same catch. Nearing the end of the catch, one captain would decide when the hull was full and break away from the pack. You see, whichever boat made it back to port first got the best price on their catch.

When the holds were full, the great 125-ft. schooners would race back to market in Provincetown—first in, highest prices.  “They left their fishing grounds with a’keep ‘er full and drive’er.’  They kept on canvas until the water came around the helmsman’s neck.  They tied their halyards aloft so they couldn’t shorten sail.  A coastwise steamer came to anchor in Provincetown Harbor, reporting, “Had a fishing boat pass me sailing under water.”
Time and the Town by Mary Heaton Vorse

The tradition of racing schooners is a rich one in our history. All that’s left of these grand old dames these days is as tourist boats and floating museums but there is a time, every summer when these old girls come out of their ports and meet up on the high seas to show that they still have what it takes. The tradition of sailing back to port with the catch is the starting point for two of the great schooner regattas today.  Gloucester and Provincetown, Massachusetts were long-time rival ports. The Mayor’s Race in Gloucester and the Fishermen’s Cup Challenge which kicks off the Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta and Yacht Race are both coming up in the next two weeks.  If you are anywhere near enough to the Cape or Massachusetts, make your way to these events.  Climb onboard a schooner for a tour or even buy a seat during a race. If you absolutely aren’t seaworthy there are plenty of events on land that let you rub shoulders with the sailing community. The crew parties are legendary and are open to the public. Bands and booze. What more could you want?

GPSR Crew Party

If you can’t make it the Cape or New England, there are great schooner adventures embarking from many ports up and down the Eastern seaboard as well as out West. Please visit the American Schooner Association. And I will see you at the crew party, dancing on a table, of course.