Photo courtesy Men.style.com
The dress of a gentleman should be such as not to excite any special observation, unless it be for neatness and propriety. The utmost care should be exercised to avoid even the appearance of desiring to attract attention by the peculiar formation of any article of attire, or by the display of an immoderate quantity of jewelry, both being a positive evidence of vulgarity. His dress should be studiously neat, leaving no other impression than that of a well dressed gentleman. Martine’s Handbook of Etiquette, 1866
The ideal of the well-dressed man is simple but apparently difficult to obtain. SP wants only for men to be impeccably turned out and never ostentatious. The well-dressed man about town should be unremarkable yet elegant and well-groomed. His clothes should be age-appropriate,fit well and be made of appropriate fabric in appropriate color. There are few occasions which allow us to see men in their finery on a public stage. The Academy Awards offer such an opportunity. Herewith, please find the list of men who managed the seemingly difficult proposition of dressing appropriately. The formula for selection is based on simple criteria: Formality, Fit, Tailoring, Age-appropriateness, Grooming, Fabric, Color and Style. Without further ado, For your consideration
The Social Primer Best Dressed List: The 2009 Academy Awards.
1. Hugh Jackman in pitch perfect Burberry. This suit is tailored within an inch of its life. From collar to cuff, it does not get better than this.
2. Tom Ford in Tom Ford. Mister Ford is the the master of men’s wear. This tailored, double-breasted tuxedo is about as classic as it gets. And he wears it with aplomb.
3. Jake Gyllenhaal keeps it traditional and keeps it right. The return of the waistcoat is a welcome revival.
4. Brad Pitt in Tom Ford. Mister Pitt is embracing his age and his stature as leading man. The goatee almost kept him off the list, though.
5. President Barack Obama in Hartmarx. OK. He wasn’t in Hollywood, but he hosted an event the same night. The president as style icon. Eat your heart out Monsieur Sarkozy.
6. Dustin Lance Black. The winner of best screenplay for Milk looks splendid. The white knot on his lapel is in protest of Proposition 8.
8. Dev Patel in Burberry. Young, classic, international. A true role model for young men everywhere.
9. Zac Efron in Dolce & Gabbana. SP is usually not a fan of the shrunken suit, but this is a fine example of age-appropriateness and especially encouraging to see such effort from Young (usually scruffy) Hollywood. SP would like to see a cummerbund or waistcoat, though.
Honorable Mention: They came so close. If not for one misstep, these gentlemen were near perfect.
1. Daniel Craig in Dolce & Gabbana. Almost perfect. The shawl collar is especially well done. Everything works but the color. Midnight Blue on a red carpet? No. And not so sure what’s happening at the sleeve.
2. Adrien Brody in Versace. Again, so damn near perfect. But the hair, the beard. Do you have to ask?
3. Zac Posen. Mr. Posen is a SP favorite when it comes to eccentric style. The white dinner jacket is perfect for an East Coast man travelling to the resort clime of Los Angeles. What’s wrong? The tie. No to color or patterns. Keep it classic.
4. Dominic Cooper in Burberry. Again, oh so close. But young sir needs to add a trip to the barber to the list before stepping out in evening clothes. Rob Pattison for the same reason. So close.
5. Gavin Rossdale. This is the best of the informal looks that so pervade Hollywood. If only he’d opted for a bow tie.
Final thoughts: It’s the Academy Awards. We expect the best. Cut, wash and comb your hair. Shave your scruff. By the way, attention men, the 2-day scruff is NOT acceptable in any way in a formal situation. Take your suit to a tailor. A little white shirt cuff should show at the end of your jacket. Keep it black and white. No black shirts or kooky colorful ties, waistcoats or cummerbunds on formal occasions. SP prefers patent opera pumps or velvet slippers, but is overlooking the preponderance of patent lace-ups on this year’s list. Baby steps here, encourage the positives, down play the negatives. SP applauds (enthusiastically!) the gents (and stylists) who made the effort, heeded the moment, nodded to history, well, you get the picture. If the doubters didn’t believe SP before, perhaps with this sartorial proof (from Hollywood, no less) the Thomas’s will agree. Elegance is making a comeback. Tradition isn’t dead. Classic is always appropriate.
** SP thanks the Curson Supper Club for lively conversation and diligent research in compiling this list.
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this post has 1 comment
So SP, you might have mentioned the long tie (the four in hand) as a real no no, even in black when dressed in a dinner suit. What loser dreamed up that little number a few years ago? I only love men in bow ties. Great stuff. Thanks. I guess you did mention the long tie in a way but someone really needs to shout it out of fashion alley.
posted on September 1, 2009
SM
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