StylePrimer: Shoes

The true foundation of the gentleman’s closet — and his wardrobe — begins with shoes. Keeping with SocialPrimer’s democratic tradition of great finds at all prices, SP will attempt to locate alternatives at varying price points without sacrificing quality or style. Price notwithstanding, you should look at these suggestions as investments in your future. The costs will be justified in time. The golden rule being that if you invest in the highest quality you can afford, these shoes will last a lifetime. That said, let’s jump in, shall we?

The descriptions and terms used for men’s shoes can be dizzying or at best confusing. Oxford, Brogue, wingtip, cap-toe, split-toe, blucher, pump, bird’s eye, monk strap, vamp, last, and welt are all terms used to characterize men’s shoes. Let’s begin by defining some of the vocabulary. You know what the sole and insole of a shoe are, so here are some terms you might not be familiar with. The Vamp is the part of the shoe that includes the tongue in lace-ups and the rise following the top of the foot in loafers. The Welt is a strip of leather that is stitched to the upper and insole of a shoe attaching to the sole. The Last is the solid form around which a new shoe is molded. The fit of a shoe depends on the design, shape and volume of the Last and represents the shape of the foot. Here is a diagram to illustrate the vocabulary. So without much further ado, herewith are the requisite shoe types and descriptions of these necessities to be found in the well-dressed man’s wardrobe.

Dress and Business Shoes –SP suggests an investment in black first. Then, as your career and your bank account grow, invest in brown, then oxblood.

Oxford (or Balmoral) – the most classic men’s shoe for business. The vamp has a V-shaped slit to which the laces are attached also known as closed lacing. Here is a fine example from Allen-Edmonds and the ultimate luxury from John Lobb.

Brogue (short for Brougham) or Wingtip. The term wingtip comes from the W pattern on the toe of the shoe which resembles wings. Brogueing refers to the holes which form the wingtip pattern in the shoes. This style originated when Scottish Highlanders had to step in and out of bogs and needed a shoe that would allow drainage. I would not recommend hopping in a bog in the modern Brogue. Today the Brogue is very elegant and condidered de rigueur for business. Here’s an affordable pair of wingtips from Johnston & Murphy and a classic pair from Brooks Brothers.

Blucher (or Derby) is a style of shoe with open lacing. The tongue of the shoe is made with the same piece of leather as the vamp, and the facings with the lacing holes meet together over the tongue, and are not stitched to the tongue at the bottom. A nice pair of Cordovan Bluchers from Ben Silver.

Monk Strap – is a strap across the vamp which features a buckle and strap instead of lacing. Very elegant suede style from Ben Silver.

Casual/Weekend Shoes

Blucher – a business favorite but also great for casual when produced in the hands of L.L. Bean.

Buck- the old preppy — and especially Southern — classic that no seersucker suit is complete without. White, tan or two-toned, these shoes are the ideal dressed-up casual shoe for style and comfort. Here is a good link discussing many styles as well as a great pair from our old favorite, Brooks Brothers.

Driving Shoe- a casual classic, began with the Gommino by J.P. Tod – or Tods as the company is now known — first designed to literally drive fast Italian sports cars with tiny pedals.

Sperry Top-siders – The classic leather boat shoe has long been accepted by traditional men as the comfortable alternative to a sneaker.

Loafers- are by nature casual and have no place being worn with a business suit. Blazer and pants or jeans yes. Business suit, no. Check out these suede loafers from Polo and the classic must-have Gucci loafer can be found here.

Velvet slippers – The most daring — and in my opinion the most chic — option for formal wear. Even better with jeans and a blazer.

Formal

Oxford in patent leather only. A very nice pair from Brooks Brothers.

Opera pump in patent leather with or without a gross grain bow. Granted these shoes can look a little prissy, but are correct. Here’s a beautiful pair by Crockett & Jones for Ben Silver.

A word about color-

As a rule — in shoes as in clothes – color goes dark for evening. White shoes, tan shoes, two-tone, Clark’s or Ferragamo it does not matter, as the sun sets so do light colors for men. Black, navy, oxblood (reddish brown. Think classic penny loafer), dark brown or Cordovan (not a color actually but a leather tanning process) are acceptable for evening. These last two are reluctantly acceptable. Stick with black and you’ll be fine.

Now that you are on your way with a few great pair of shoes, remember that your investments need to be taken care of. If you want your shoes to last (and smell good) don’t wear them every day. Change them up, let them dry, let them rest. Well-made shoes improve with care, so keep them professionally shined on a regular basis. Replace the heels when needed and eventually the soles. And always, always keep shoe trees in your shoes when you are not wearing them. This will keep the shape and eliminate moisture.