Hot-House Style

A reader writes, “A friend and I were talking about your site and we were wondering about  “summer uniforms” for those of us down here in the Deep South when it gets hot. NO, not  hot – sweltering. Oppressive. Uncomfortable.  Can we get away with wearing shorts somewhere (either because it’s accepted or because not to do so would make you look weird and dandy-ish, not fashionable), then how can we wear them? What shoes? What socks? Polos or short-sleeve button-downs? Tucked in or left out? Is there a look — a rule, even — for this climate that isn’t just “post-frat boy”?

Having spent much of my life in the Deep South, I can say from experience there is only one answer to dressing in the hot-house heat. Linen. Embrace it. And now with the Internet and gold rush of retailers competing for your recession dollar, every man can afford this light weight fabric. In fact, I just purchased a gingham linen shirt at Uniglo (in Manhattan) for $19.99 and it is as beautiful as Charvet. Begin with the linen investment in shirts, shorts and pants. Then rediscover cotton, light, summer-weight cotton. And of course, seersucker. You will notice the one thing these fabrics all have in common. They are all woven, as opposed to knit. Woven fabrics breathe, which allows the body heat build-up to escape and the elusive breeze to flow in. Knits, on the other hand, are dense and hold heat in. Button downs, long-sleeved shirts are woven. T-shirts, polos and the like are knits. How do you tell the difference? Pull the fabric, if it stretches, it’s a knit. It should also go without saying that a man should only wear natural fibers anytime, but especially in the summer. Check the label.  This is why you will see the well-dressed man in a long sleeved woven cotton shirt calmly enduring the heat while the lazy man in the knit t-shirt will be withering in the humidity.

I attended a black-tie wedding in Palm Beach in late May. We dressed and arrived at the church and it was frying-pan hot and rain-forest humid. My friend who had just flown in from Paris asked me how in the world we would keep from sweating through our black, wool dinner jackets in this heat. I told him the secret all Southerners know. Move slowly and follow the shade line of the trees ahead. Once perspiration has broken, there is no going back. Move slowly, I say. It is not only elegant, but can keep you from turning into a sponge.

As for shorts, I am against them for anything but very casual days at home or running errands or just hanging out at a close friend’s house. Shorts rarely pass for acceptable attire in a social situation for any man over the age of twelve.  I’m sorry, but this is iron truth. It’s inappropriate to see a man’s knees or God forbid thighs! anywhere but the lake, the pool or the beach. Wear light weight khakis or linen pants. If you’re adventurous, try on madras. One of my favorite looks is a white button-down — always tucked —  brown belt,  seersucker pants, no socks and Sperry’s. To repeat: No shorts at social gatherings for anything but the most casual backyard barbecue, unless of course you are visiting Bermuda and then it is the local norm. The same holds true for a visit to the Cote d’Ivoire should you decide to don a daishiki.  Finally, for shoes, re-discover the tried and true Sperry Top-sider for summer, even if you are miles from the nearest yacht club. These shoes only get better with wear and you can wear them all summer long without socks, with shorts or long pants.

Follow this guide for easy, traditional, and appropriate summer time style. You’ll be comfortable as well as confident.

Shopping note: Every shop is on sale now. Ralph Lauren, Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers. On-line or in store you can rack up major savings on timeless clothes that will last you for years. Jump to it.

SocialPrimer recommends: Uniglo, H&M, Sperry Top-sider.